Glorious lava rock fire pits and Hockney-muraled pool at the citadel of revived '50s motor lodge cool. Still celeb-stocked, though a slightly slower scene with the departure of Scheer-Demme. It's a wee bit more open to the layman too. Teddy's for agoraphobic celeb-watching. Wait and see what tomorrow brings, while the whole thing tries to stay afloat. We'll be sitting with the ghosts of Marilyn, Erroll, and Montgomery—we know they need a drink by now!