Finally a reason for upscale gourmets to stay uptown. Seriously sophisticated cooking, delivers on all counts. Twenty-five different sherries complement Brussels sprout salad and lamb meatloaf from Chef John Fraser, late of Compass. Bacon brittle in your bread pudding for dessert. Minimal but warm brick and slate brownstone. Stealth door, only slightly formal, totally modern. Tea and crumpets in the afternoon. Practice dropping “the” before hospital and university.