Red Rooster

Cheflebrity Marcus Samuelsson brings modern, soulful fare to the new Harlem. Dirty south by way of Scandinavia: meatballs and lingonberry, duck liver pudding, lox tarts. Old Harlem, too, in both the name (a long-gone local bar) and classic bites (fried yard bird with hot sauce, shrimp ‘n’ grits). Bustling space with small provisions section, jazz portraits, curvy bar. Chef lives in the hood, makes the occasional appearance in the open kitchen. Believe the hype.